Ritual
clothing is an indispensable part of the sacred order of Tenganan
Pegringsing. The double ikat cloths known as geringsing produced
here rank among the masterwork of traditional textile art,
providing a further sign of the divinely-ordained exclusivity
of the society. The cloths are said to have directly inspired
by Batara Indra, the Creator who was once sitting in a tree
enjoying the beauty of the moon and stars. While contemplating
the heavens, he decided to teach the women of Tenganan the
art of ikat patterning. Since then, the community has obeyed
a divine commandment to wear kamben geringsing or double ikat
cloths. In this way, the villagers evince purity and the ability
to perform rituals qualities, which these clothes protect
from harmful outside influences.
Festival of the swings
Among
the most important religious duties of the villagers of Tenganan
is the festive reception of gods and ancestors, who from time
to time descend to their megalithic thrones and altars in
and around the inner village precincts. The presence of deities
and ancestors is of great significance, above all during the
fifth month of the Tenganan year, Sasih Sambah, for it is
then that the universe, the village and the religious community
are renewed and given strength through the performance of
extensive, solemn rites.
The ceremonies that take
place then are reminiscent of old Vedic swinging rites performed
during the mahavrata winter solstice celebration, which focuses
on Indra. The swinging unites sun and earth, and together
with textile techniques and recent genetic research, suggests
that Tenganan may be connected with immigration from east
or southeast India during Vedic times.
In a legendary account,
the people of Tenganan are said to have arrived here while
searching for the favorite horse of the king of Bedahulu.
Although it was dead when found, the king showed his gratitude
by promising to give the searchers all land in the area where
the horse's decomposed body could be smelt. So a representative
of the court, accompanied by the village head, walked around
the huge area which today forms
Tenganan, finding that
in fact the horse's flesh could still be smelled for quite
a distance. After the court officer had departed, the cunning
village chief pulled a piece of bad smelling horsemeat from
under his waistband. The remnants of the horse are believed
to be scattered around the village as megalithic monuments.
There are other indications,
too, that the people of Tenganan have not always lived here.
A copper inscription dated A.D. 1040 speaks of a relationship
between the powerful governor from Java, a certain Buddhist
reformer Mpu Kuturan in Silayukti (near Padangbai), and a
nearby village named "Tranganan" that was then on
the coast at Candidasa and later moved to the interior.
Proof that the villagers
of Tenganan moved from the seaside to their present location
is provided in the design and placement of the original altars
(sanggah kamulan) in the house compounds. In other parts of
Bali this altar is always built in the corner facing east
and toward the mountains. In Tenganan it is placed towards
the sea.
When a member of the
community of Tenganan dies, his or her body is not cremated.
Once the sun is past the zenith, the corpse is carried from
the compound to the cemetery. At the grave the body is' undressed,
then it is returned to Mother Earth (Pertiwi), head seaward
and face down.
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